Exfoliate The Right Way
Exfoliate the right way
for radiant skin. When
you are young, your cellular
turnover rate is about 28 days. By
your
40’s, that rate is closer to 35 days.
Throw in improper cleansing, stress, and poor
diet and the rate can be
even longer. As the
epidermis gets
thicker, the skin looks dull and products don’t penetrate as well thus
reducing
their effectiveness. If
you are going to
go to the trouble and expense of using high quality anti-aging
products, you
don’t want to sabotage them before they get a chance to start.
Now
that you understand
how important exfoliation is, you
need to understand that how you
exfoliate is equally important. I
have
never been a fan of the gritty scrubs and home microdermabrasion kits
and
constantly warn my clients of the possible negative effects they can
have. Gritty scrubs
can cause problems in a number
of ways.
1.
Many people with
acne or clogged pores tend to scrub more aggressively in the oily or
breakout
prone areas. This
causes irritation
and
uneven exfoliation.
2.
Those with hyperpigmentation
or brown sun spots tend to scrub those areas more.
The resulting inflammation can actually cause
your pigment producing cells to produce more pigment.
That is the opposite effect you had hoped for
and didn’t even realize you were causing it.
3.
Most scrubs are
actually sharp shards which cause microscopic cuts in the epidermal
layer. This damage
causes inflammation which can
lead to aging. It
also leaves the body
vulnerable to bacteria and infection. As
the body strives to repair these wounds, it uses up vital materials
that would
be better used to prevent aging in the first place.
4.
Aggressive use of
scrubs can cause or amplify broken capillaries.
A
better way to exfoliate
is chemically. Acids
exfoliate evenly and without
wounding. Glycolic
acid which is an
alpha hydroxy acid loosens the “glue” that holds your epidermal cells
layers
together so that when you wash you face loosened cells are gently
flushed
away. The
number of cells removed depends
on the strength of the acid and how long it is left on.
There are a number of acids that can be
applied and left on under make up or overnight.
These are usually applied 1-2 times a week but
some can be used
daily. I am not a
fan of cleansers that
contain acids as they can easily get into your eyes causing irritation…
and a
bit of pain. Plus,
they are not usually
on long enough to exfoliate well.
A
glycolic acid with a 10% concentration can usually be used 1-2 times a
week to
achieve a radiant glow and help other products penetrate better. If you do choose to use a
cleanser with
glycolic acid in it, make sure the concentration is around 2%. Remember, after
exfoliating it is important
to hydrate with a good moisturizer.
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